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Serving the Dart Frog Community Since 2004...

How do you raise your froglets,with emphasis on accomodation
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How do you raise your froglets,with emphasis on accomodation
#21
I raise mine in vivs that are around 20 gal in size. The vivs are WELL established with tons of micro fauna and tons of calcium build-up from years and years of supplementing.
Leaf litter , as always, is a must.
Darts with parasites are analogous to mixed tanks, there are no known benefits to the frogs with either.


If tone is more important to you than content, you are at the wrong place.

My new email address is: rich.frye@icloud.com and new phone number is 773 577 3476
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#22
RichFrye Wrote:I raise mine in vivs that are around 20 gal in size. The vivs are WELL established with tons of micro fauna and tons of calcium build-up from years and years of supplementing.
Leaf litter , as always, is a must.

Rich correct if I'm wrong ,but am I reading that you don't clean out the rearing vivs between batches of froglets(re Ca build up from years of dusting)? I presume you also have a separate viv for each breeding pr/group and these are all obligates?
Much thanks

Stu
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#23
Stu&Shaz Wrote:
RichFrye Wrote:I raise mine in vivs that are around 20 gal in size. The vivs are WELL established with tons of micro fauna and tons of calcium build-up from years and years of supplementing.
Leaf litter , as always, is a must.

Rich correct if I'm wrong ,but am I reading that you don't clean out the rearing vivs between batches of froglets(re Ca build up from years of dusting)? I presume you also have a separate viv for each breeding pr/group and these are all obligates?
Much thanks

Stu


Hi Stu,
No, I have a separate vivs for all breeding lines, when needed. So as to keep lines correct and known.
I pride myself in my quarantine procedures and continued testing of those frogs which have left quarantine. It's truly amazing how the state of health of a dart can remain static or become even better/stronger after you have spent an appropriate amount of time and effort on their health before placing them into long-term residences.
Starting out with healthy frogs, comfort (in the form of leaf litter , hides, plants, correct food stuffs and amounts) and diet, which includes micro fauna getting plenty of calcium, are the main goals and success bars.
Darts with parasites are analogous to mixed tanks, there are no known benefits to the frogs with either.


If tone is more important to you than content, you are at the wrong place.

My new email address is: rich.frye@icloud.com and new phone number is 773 577 3476
Reply
#24
Hi Rich,
what i think i missed is that you are rearing the young insitu with the parents? because they ARE obligates. Rich there comes a point when a young frog needs to be moved away from its parents,you've mentioned males(parent) are able to sense a young male in his territory ha well before we can identify him.what age do you pull youngsters? Does this vary between morphs of pumillio,or do you have other criteria observations you can share which would tell you what is the right time to remove a young obligate? Plus what volume tanks do you use for these teenagers? is it again 20gall?

I'm very aware of your work at keeping your lines correct,plus you reasoning behind QT protocols,you have been hugely generous with you time in this respect.

Rich can i bother you with one final question regarding pums . If one has a seriously healthy microfauna population in viv,how does one stop the parents getting too obese ? Ive been pondering this for a while
much thanks

Stu
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#25
Stu&Shaz Wrote:Hi Rich,
what i think i missed is that you are rearing the young insitu with the parents? because they ARE obligates. Rich there comes a point when a young frog needs to be moved away from its parents,you've mentioned males(parent) are able to sense a young male in his territory ha well before we can identify him.what age do you pull youngsters? Does this vary between morphs of pumillio,or do you have other criteria observations you can share which would tell you what is the right time to remove a young obligate? Plus what volume tanks do you use for these teenagers? is it again 20gall?

I'm very aware of your work at keeping your lines correct,plus you reasoning behind QT protocols,you have been hugely generous with you time in this respect.

Rich can i bother you with one final question regarding pums . If one has a seriously healthy micro fauna population in viv,how does one stop the parents getting too obese ? Ive been pondering this for a while
much thanks

Stu


Stu,
no, I pull froglets , of any obligate, when the become easy to catch , or as early as they pop front legs and I move the film can into one of the 20s.
20's for new morphs, 20's for those which may be close to calling and therefore may become an aggression problem, and 20's for sexing once I am sure they are of breeding age.
I have never once worried about micro-fauna over feeding obligates. Much micro fauna has better nutritional benefits that cultured stuffs.
If anything we over feed FFs and FF larva. I have some large frogs, but no obese ones. It's generally easy to tell an obese frog, just with humans, dogs, cats, etc. And it's not healthy for them either.

Rich
Darts with parasites are analogous to mixed tanks, there are no known benefits to the frogs with either.


If tone is more important to you than content, you are at the wrong place.

My new email address is: rich.frye@icloud.com and new phone number is 773 577 3476
Reply
#26
Thanks Rich, to be clear here, by microfauna do you mean springtails and iso,or are you talking about other oranisms?

regards
Stu
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#27
Stu&Shaz Wrote:Thanks Rich, to be clear here, by microfauna do you mean springtails and iso,or are you talking about other oranisms?

regards
Stu

Sure thing Stu,
I'm talking about gnats, firebrats, mites, springs, worms, roly-polies and any hitchhikers or any other tiny little bug or bug-like food which is found in-viv after years of being established.
Rich
Darts with parasites are analogous to mixed tanks, there are no known benefits to the frogs with either.


If tone is more important to you than content, you are at the wrong place.

My new email address is: rich.frye@icloud.com and new phone number is 773 577 3476
Reply
#28
Fabulous Rich all understood,much thanks for a tiny insight into how you do things related to rearing.
Fascinating
cheers for the time
Stu
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