Sellers Name and location - Philsuma (Phil) Harrisburg, Pennsyltucky
References upon request
Species - Oophaga pumilio 'Solarte'
Line/Origin - SNDF unknown year
Code - None
Age - At least 3 years
Quantity and sex (if possible) - 1 Proven Male
Price - $150.0
Group Prices - N/A
Preferred Payment Method - Cash and local pickup ONLY   - Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
Shipping Rates & information - No shipping due to FedEx not guaranteeing live arrival/ insurance.
Pictures - Attached

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When you see reference to "nemerteans" they are actually, 99.99999% of the time, a terrestrial flatworm (Rynchodemus sylvaticus sp). Although there are terrestrial nemerteans, they are basically unheard of as viv pests whereas flatworms are common in vivs and greenhouses and mild climates, like Hawaii.

They are capable arthropod predators - including fruit flies and small isopods and they can consume them in large numbers when the worms' population booms. In my experience, they will decline over time to relative rarity. I have observed my frogs eating them more than once and now I rarely see one ever (less than than once every 6 months) and I observe my viv daily.

They 'ride' in on newly acquired bromeliads. They need moist almost wet conditions. 

So: Remove the ones you see (they are especially active at night and on wet surfaces of leaves, broms and glass). There's not really anything else you can do to eliminate them quickly. They go after fruit flies, especially the larger 'worms', and you will also see the tell-tale husks of dead flies clinging to plants or glass.



1. Relax. Take a deep breath. NO NEED for a vivarium tear-down and god forbid a silly 'dry ice/ CO2' blunder that almost never works for any viv pest - doesn't kill  the eggs and adults survive more than you would think. Chemicals and poisons are goofy and preposterous. Don't consider them.

1. They WILL peter out. Every vivarium pest has a 'boom and bust' cycle. They will NOT harm your frogs, froglets or frog eggs.

2. Use a paper towel section or a Kleenex ripped  in half -no need to waste an entire paper product and grab them and ball up the paper and into the trash .NO way they are surviving that. Just keep at it, and after a while of hand-removing them, you will see less and less and then....none. I have hand removed at least a dozen vivs and they go away quicker than you think and rarely come back and never 'with a vengeance'.


Post content by Kimcmich and some editing and additional content by Philsuma.

https://insituecosystems.com/collections/vivariums

Has anyone tested one out? There's an alumalite back panel upgrade option too. Saw a youtube review and they looked interesting but only one size right now. It's great that he's designing these vivs with dart frogs in mind - FF proof with door gaskets and bumpers.

• I am hoping to build a large tank out of pvc, and have a bunch of questions on materials/construction methods. I'm going to try and list my top questions here, but if you have a chance and feel like sharing your experience, i would appreciate your help!
  
  1. Can you send me a link with the exact pvc product you use? I'm having trouble sourcing it in my area..
  
  2. Does the PVC flex at all/ problematically?
  
  3. How thick of pvc would you recommend? My dimensions will be 48x24x24
  
  4. Do you only use cement as a bonder? Do you screw the boards together as well? Do you have a link to the cement you used?
  
  5. Do you silicone the joints as well?
  
  6. For a large tank like the one i am building, how would you support the glass top? I am worrying about flex. (And how thick would you make the glass).
  
  I've use glass euro styles, but i've never built one this large.
  

The animal house Mukwonago Wisconsin is a great little shop specializing in reptiles and amphibians.  They come to some of the local shows but I always enjoy a trip up there to see what they've got in stock.  They even have some rare isopod species, not sure how the virus is affecting business but they are great and I thought I would give a shout out.

https://www.animalhousepets.net/

   

Has anyone tried the new zilla tanks it looks like they have a proper setup for dart frogs with a humidity cover and a 1-in strip of screen.

Looking to trade for a few items (or purchase if timing is right)

ISO:

Proven groups or pairs of 
mint terribilis 
orange terribilis 
ameerga 
Tricolor ankas 
Tricolor Rio salladio 
southern variabilis 
arena Blanca 
popa 
Cayo de aqua 
Solarte 
Aquacate 
Bruno 
Chirquri grande 
mimitimbe colon 
Darklands 
Pastores 


FOR TRADE:

Proven 
1.1 cemetery bastimentos 
1.1 Drago colon 
1.1 Cristobal 
1.1 rambala 
1.1 salt Creek 
1.1 Rio branco 
0.0.2 gold dust basti 
1.1 patricia

Looking to trade for a few items (or purchase if timing is right)

ISO:

Proven groups or pairs of 
mint terribilis 
orange terribilis 
ameerga 
Tricolor ankas 
Tricolor Rio salladio 
southern variabilis 
arena Blanca 
popa 
Cayo de aqua 
Solarte 
Aquacate 
Bruno 
Chirquri grande 
mimitimbe colon 
Darklands 
Pastores 


FOR TRADE:

Proven 
1.1 cemetery bastimentos 
1.1 Drago colon 
1.1 Cristobal 
1.1 rambala 
1.1 salt Creek 
1.1 Rio branco 
0.0.2 gold dust basti 
1.1 patricia

Hey everyone, I'm offering an exclusive discount code for members of the forum. Visit my website Cloudforest.Design and receive 20% off all of the standard vivarium labels in your cart by applying the discount code: DARTDEN at checkout.

Let me know if you have any questions, can't find something you're looking for, etc.

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It's easy to get used to leaving a slice of banana or some other fruit in the enclosure and watch (or not if the frogs are shy).

Some dangers:

1. It prevents the frogs from being active and hunting and ranging for their food.

2. the fruit 'summons' most of the flies in the enclosure to that spot and some of the more shy frogs in a group enclosure may not eat, while the more aggressive frogs are right up against the fruit feeding station.

3. If the feeding station attracts and holds flies for a longer time, they may groom off more of the dusted/coated supplement powder thus depriving the frogs.

4. It may seem easy and convenient or even fun to leave fruit in the enclosure and thus becomes a habit.


Some benefits:

1. If there is a very small froglet alone in a smaller enclosure, a feeding station may assist it in finding food.

2. I would recommend leaving the banana skin on to make it last longer. The banana may develop fly larvae and this is usually well taken by frogs and helpful for problem eaters ect.

3. Feeding station / fruit can be left in all 4 corners of the enclosure if you are gone for a few days / short week and can be used as a temporary 'vacation feeder'


I believe fruit stations have a certain place and use in the hobby, but I would not rely on them or make them a common practice. They should be used sparingly and temporarily. 

Distributing dusted flies at every feeding by shaking, spooning or blowing them scattered throughout the enclosure is what I do and would recommend.